The Northwest

03/27/08

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Over the long Easter weekend, we explored the northwest of Tasmania, an area we had not visited yet.  This is a pretty good sized chunk of Tasmania and we didn't do it justice, but we covered a lot of ground.  The northern portion along the coast is mainly farmland with a rich, dark chocolate/red soil.  Along the coastline are remnants of a volcanic past.  In the sunset photo above, the Nut at Stanley can be seen in the distance. The west coast is a wild, basically unsettled area with rainforest and beautiful beaches.  The center which is listed in early maps as "This Part of the Country Unknown" is mostly forest, some really dense and sometimes swampy forest.  The entire trip was only five days, but we drove on all the major roads of the area and many of the minor ones.  We saw virgin forests and the Tasmanian devil!  We walked on deserted beaches and we found ancient petroglyphs. 

 
          
We started our day Saturday with a walk on Sisters Beach near Boat Harbour where we spent the night after driving up from Hobart on Friday. Just west of Sisters Beach is Rocky Cape National Park.  Looking east from the park we could see 190 meter tall Table Cape, an ancient lava lake. 
Looking west from the cape we could see across the water to Stanley and the Nut, a large lava plug that rises 152 meters above the water and sets a dramatic backdrop for the town.   The beach at Rocky Cape...... 
        
From Rocky Cape, we drove south towards Waratah, site of the richest tin mine in the world for many years.  The land is very rugged and you can start to see why it wasn't easy to explore. We stopped at Hellyer Gorge for a short walk through the rainforest. 

Water from Lake Waratah flows over Waratah Falls and into the gorge then on into the Arthur River.  This was right in front of our hotel in Waratah, the Mt. Bischoff Hotel.

We drove west from Waratah to Corinna (Aboriginal for Tasmanian devil) and took a trip on the Arcadia II, a Huon pine, luxury cruise boat that was taken over by the Australian Navy in WW II, used as a gun boat for many years and eventually ended up as a tour boat on the Pieman River. 
The Pieman runs through rainforest on its right bank and eucalypt on its left.  There are still a few, ancient Huon pines on its banks, twisted trees the piners didn't want for shipbuilding. The light green tree in the foreground is a young Huon pine.  Another 1000 years and it might be a decent specimen!    The beach at the heads of the Pieman River is strewn with logs that have floated down.  In the winter, ten meter waves here remove all the sand and all that's left is a huge stack of timber!
A stack like this in a nearby stream, but higher... I was offered a chance to skipper the Arcadia II for a while and couldn't resist. 
From Corinna we worked our way north to Marawah and visited Preminghana, an Aboriginal area.  This is the beach there with Mt. Cameron West in the background, a mountain sacred to the Aboriginals.  The rocks that interrupt the beach were spectacular in their color variations from blue green to maroon to purple. 
On the beach we found tracks of Bennett's Wallabies, many different shore birds and here, the Tasmanian Devil!  Try this to hear the sounds they make and the reason they were so named...   Devil Sounds - Tasmanian Devil We also found ancient stone carvings that date back at least 10,000 years and perhaps much longer.  Many of the carvings have just been covered with sand because of recent vandalism.
Just north of the Aboriginal area is Woolnorth where there is a wind farm.  You can just make out the wind generators on top of the cape.  The roaring 40's provides a reliable source of wind for the power generation there. This beach, like most we've found, was completely deserted.
From Marawah, we entered the Tarkine Wilderness and got some fine views of the Arthur River gorge.  A sink hole in the Lake Chisholm Forest Reserve, one of only two in Tasmania that have filled with water. 
The forest around Lake Chisholm is wet, wet, wet... And the trees are tall! 
Finally, we ran out of time and headed back towards Hobart.  At one point along the Midlands Highway, I just had to stop and take a picture of the evening sun and the Tasmanian landscape.  We arrived home tired, but feeling pretty good about our adventures in the Northwest and also very happy to be where we are where the sunsets from our verandah can be unbelievable.

 

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